Just finished reading Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life by World Champion Surfer, Shaun Tomson with Patrick Moser. I finished it in two days because it's such an easy read. I found the subject very interesting too since I love swimming in the ocean and could relate on many levels.
Apparently I'm not the only one who thinks this is a great book since it's often out of stock according to this book store's quote.
What I found synchronistic was the fact I had planned to attend the local South Bay Surfrider Chapter Mixer the day I finished it not realizing, until I read the epilogue, Shaun Tomson is on Surfrider's Board of Directors.
I had produced an event for my client The Shore which promoted Surfrider and
wanted to reconnect to see if I could help in some way now since I have
free time. Apparently, all positions of leadership are wide open if you
are available to commit to a two-year term.
Since
I am applying to jobs out-of-state, as well as, locally, I can't make
that kind of commitment right now, but do plan to help where and when I
can. If you're interested in stepping up, then either attend a meeting
in person, or shoot an email to: info (at) surfrider-southbay (dot) org
to get more information.
Last night I learned they have two very cool programs going on that could use your support if you simply want to be a volunteer, not a Chapter leader. The first deals with high school students and is a program called Teach & Test.
If
anyone has connections to a science teacher at any of the other local
schools including Mira Costa, please contact the coordinator at the end
of this blurb because this type of assistance is always welcomed.
Here's a highlight intro taken from the website:
About the Teach and Test Program
"The
South Bay Chapter's Teach and Test program coordinates four local high
schools—Westchester, El Segundo, South High, and Redondo Union—to
improve water quality monitoring in the South Bay area. Water samples
are taken every two weeks (holidays excluded) from 13 South Bay
beaches, then analyzed in a lab to determine bacteria levels which will
be published to the public by the students.
Through participation in the Teach and Test program, students will gain "real world" science experience, while our volunteers develop valuable skills in making tangible contributions to their community—the hallmarks of a true Surfrider Foundation grassroots effort. Natural Resources Defense Council's (NRDC) July 2009 report titled "Testing the Waters" found that record beach closures due to water pollution remain a major problem.
Now more important than ever, Surfrider's Teach and Test program provides the means to monitor and bring public awareness to bacteria levels in our own backyard - our local beaches!
Adult Volunteer Supervisors Are Needed Now!
To build on the strengths of last year's program, we are seeking adult volunteers for Teach and Test sampling days (beginning Sunday, October 4, 2009, through April 2010).
If
you are a responsible adult (age 18+) who would like to make a real
contribution to the community by providing guidance and by serving as
mentors to the Teach and Test program students, we would like to talk
to you. Contact us today and find out how you can make a difference
that matters.
For additional information about the Teach and Test Program or to volunteer, please contact Tiffany Murphy via email at: TiffMurphy (at) gmail (dot) com"
There's also a very interesting program sponsored by Surfrider called Ocean Friendly Gardens (OFG) which promotes using certain plants and recycled rain water among other conservation tips to create a garden that will prevent water run-off into the ocean. (I think I'm saying that right, but for the exact info, click here.)
Oh, and if you're interested in attending the Surfrider Foundation's 25th Anniversary event
on October 9, 2009, better hurry because tickets are going fast. VIP
ticket's are already sold out! Looks like it's going to be an amazing
event with quality musicians and speakers featuring Camp Freddy and hosted by Blink 182's Mark Hoppus.
Shaun Tomson will be there in person too. (Click on the last link to see Shaun in action on a wave and click here to hear his South African accent as he reads from Surfer's Code about a wave where he was almost killed riding it.)
Back to Surfer's Code.
Have
to admit, I had a little chuckle when I first opened it and noticed
there were lots of blue highlighted phrases and pulled quotes which
stood out against the black and white print.
Although
it's not normally done, it worked once you realized Shaun felt this was
information which was important to him to convey to readers and who he was writing the book for - surfers. This
is not a slam, just an observation.
Shaun
wrote a very simplistic, yet thoughtful life/business guide because I think he realizes the impact his words
will have on the sport and the people who pick it up.
I
personally think more surfers should read Lesson 7 which says, "There
Will Always Be Another Wave". Apparently, surfing has become so popular
that guys get into verbal and physical fights about taking waves in
when there's too much competition for the same wave.
As
I applied this lesson to my own life, I realized there will always be
another job. Sometimes when I see friends up for things I wish I was
being considered for I have to remind myself it's their turn and when
it's mine, it will be just the right timing and just the right
opportunity.
There were quite a few lessons I could apply to my own life since I grew up living on the strand in Manhattan Beach and have always loved swimming in the ocean. I learned Lesson 1 "I will never turn my back on the ocean" at an early age when I almost drowned until a surfer saw me struggling, paddled over and took me into shore. The lifeguard hadn't seen me because he was too busy flirting apparently.:)
Maybe that's why I have a soft spot for surfers. Just realized that...:)
Shaun shared his
story of how his father had lost his arm to a shark, yet still passed
on his love of the ocean to him. It was very touching to read of the
love and devotion in this relationship and then between Shaun's own son
and himself. You must read the epilogue to be especially blessed.
I also related to Lesson 5 "I will paddle back out" although in my case I swam back out, not surfed. Despite what the ocean put him through, Shaun continues to pursue his love of surfing. What I have always admired about the men and women who live in the South Bay is how many continue to surf well into their 70's and beyond!
It was very interesting to learn that in South Africa, where Shaun grew up, surfers have always been considered professional athletes similar to our athletes in sports like football and basketball. Who knew? I enjoyed learning more about apartheid through Shaun's eyes since he lives his life as a reflection of Lesson 11 "All Surfers are Joined by One Ocean" and as a result, doesn't discriminate against anyone.Now Lesson 6 surprised me. I have always thought surfing was a rather solitary activity - man/woman against the ocean - and there wasn't a bond between surfers like there would be in a team sport. However, Shaun explained otherwise.
This lesson states, "I Will Watch Out for Other Surfers". His hope is that those just entering the sport will take this lesson to heart. He related stories of surfer's saving other surfers during perilous situations which is what life is all about.
What makes this book so easy to read and very interesting, even if you're not a surfer, is all the personal stories he shares to explain each point which really makes the surfing experience come alive for the reader, surfer or not.
There were so many good stories, I recommend you get the book to enjoy them yourself because I'm not going to do them justice repeating them here.
I found this book at the library where I get most of the books I read. I read 900 words a minute and don't want a big home library. I was reading at the 15th grade level in the 3rd grade with a 40 out of 40 comprehension level and have always loved reading.
I think it makes you a better writer when you see how other people express themselves. I also love learning new ideas and concepts because then it keeps you fresh creatively. Great way to unwind before you go to sleep.
And just think, according to Brain Rules, I'm imbedding the lessons I'm reading deep in my brain by sleeping on the knowledge I'm gaining!:)
I've just started reading Seven Pleasures: Essays on Ordinary Happiness and the writing is brilliant! I am loving it! I love diversity in style and topic which makes this book a perfect follow-up to Tomson's Surfer's Code.
The way Seven Pleasures' author Willard Spiegelman turns a phrase is simply delightful, like eating a delicious multi-layered chocolate cake that you bite into only to realize each morsel you take is even better than the one before.
Once I've completed it I will attempt to write another review since people seem to like them and right now, I have the time!:)
And that's all she wrote....
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